How many suits to serve a table?

Though I have yet to spend an extended amount of time in the dining room at Chapter One, I have grown familiar with the hub of routines surrounding our first class service. I never grow tired of passing through the portaled wooden door, leaving behind the hurried swing of the kitchen and stepping into the hushed waltz of the diner’s world. The contrast is striking!

Part of what makes service at Chapter One so excellent is the sheer volume of staff involved in the operation. At every given moment there is an army of polished looking men and women holistically devoted to anticipating and meeting the needs of guests. Upon arrival, you are met by Martin and Declan – our owner / maître‘d team – appropriately outfitted in pinstripes and flamboyant ties. Old guest or new guest, Martin and Declan will ensure that you feel like a regular. Anna takes your coat and escorts you to your table.

Once seated, you will be greeted by another suit -- this one a bit more subdued probably to inspire your confidence in his ability to safely walk you through the menu and dining experience. We in the kitchen know these suits as the “supervisors” who saunter in around 5 PM in street clothes, grabbing bits of fresh bread and coffee on their way to the locker room. All night they will spring in and out of the kitchen competing for small favors and contending for the special needs of their particular tables.

At some point in your meal, you will meet Eoghan, our Sommelier. He jingles about the premises with keys to our wine cellar and dry spirits storage room. Eoghan is very good at pampering. He is also very good at subtly selling expensive bottles of wine. On marinade-making days, Eoghan will arrive in our prep kitchen with a large crate of red wine, Madeira and Guinness. Though we are never invited to taste our delivery from one of Eoghan’s glass tasting goblets, we still feel pampered – he is very good.

When the important decisions have been made and all food orders placed, a small militia of tuxedo vests will begin descending upon your table. Fresh breads, small plates of butter, charcuterie and other amuses…they will clear dishes, bring dishes; clear glasses, bring glasses; swap silverware; refold napkins, and deliver food throughout your entire visit. If you linger in your glance about the room, they will likely breeze over and ensure you are still “O.K.” The tuxedo vests arrive at 3 PM (10 AM for lunch) and much of their time is spent fluttering around the kitchen before service. They will hand wipe every piece of china. They will hand polish every piece of sterling silver – serving trays, sauce dishes and utensils. They will slice bread loaves and fill bread baskets. They will fold napkins and polish glasses. Perhaps their most significant duty is the 5 o’clock “Coffee Service.” The entire kitchen staff waits eagerly for “Mima,” an adorable Italian tuxedo vest, to bring round the silver tray of cappuccinos and coffee. She never forgets anyone’s favorite order. Not even Josh, to whom she lovingly delivers, “Chocolate [hot] for the baby!” The tuxedo vests are the kitchen’s most immediate connection to the outside world – all night they scurry in and out with the play-by-play of evening service. We love their dose of perspective.

In a staff of 40, only about 12 to 15 are actually employed in kitchen duties. One might be tempted to ask, “How many suits does it take to serve a table?” But I would wager, that the equation has been worked out with precision – guaranteeing that every guest knows “gratuity” when their final bill arrives.